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Head Gasket Project
("to
Fel-Pro or not to Fel-Pro?")
I noticed that water was appearing on the non-carburetor side of the head, between the #1 and #2 spark plugs, but above the head gasket. It was a bit disconcerting, as the water should have been running down the side of the engine block rather than appearing that high on the engine. As it turned out, it must have been blown there by the fan and the air currents under the hood, as it was the head gasket that was leaking water. The head was not cracked.
The first thing I did was buy a standard head gasket set with all the requisite gaskets in it that are needed for removing and reinstalling the head. Next, I bought a Fel-Pro head gasket from a local supplier. I had heard that the Fel-Pro gasket was very good quality so I wanted to check them out. When compared side-by-side, it appeared that the Fel-Pro gasket was indeed higher quality. It is thinner (not that that matters), has a smoother, "tackier" surface and the metal parts that form part of the gasket appeared to be of superior quality. When one gasket was placed over the other, the shape was precisely identical, as it should be. I decided to use the Fel-Pro gasket.
In roughly 45 minutes, the head was off the car and we were cleaning it up in preparation for reinstallation. This was a great time to inspect the head, note the color of the plugs and generally ensure that everything looked okay. We checked the top of the engine block, cleaned it off nicely with a razor blade and made sure all surfaces were clean, dry and ready to reinstall the head with the new gasket. Additionally, we re-set all the head studs in the block, as a couple of them had come loose when we removed the head.
This is where I did something some of you may not elect to do. There are those who say the newer head gaskets with the "tacky" feeling to their surface do not require any sealant. I am of the old school.... I figure I need to seal things up really well.... I don't like leaks. I've heard it both ways, so pay your money and take your chances. I'll let you know how mine works after a year or so. If it leaks, I'll do it a different way next time. The way MG heads are designed however, there aren't many studs to hold things together and it tends to leak water anyway. I'm trying to prevent that. As a result, I elected to use spray-on Copper CoatŪ. I coated the top of the block, both sides of the gasket and the bottom of the head, per the instructions on the Copper CoatŪ can. If you use this stuff, mask things off with newspaper to keep from getting it everywhere. If you put newspaper or paper towels in your cylinders to keep the stuff out, be sure and remove it! It would be very embarrassing to try and run your engine with paper inside it.
As they say, "installation is the reverse of removal." I bolted everything back together, torquing the head bolts to 55 lb./ft. You would think that after tearing it all down and then putting it together, you'd have to readjust all the valves, wouldn't you? Well, I checked them all. Coincidentally, only ONE valve needed to be readjusted! 7 of the 8 were perfectly adjusted! How's that for amazing? It was a lucky afternoon.
Turned the key, fired it up and let it heat up, checking for leaks. None. Went for a drive then checked for leaks again. None. So far, I'm happy with the Fel-Pro gasket. I'll let you know how things hold up. If I see a spec of water, you'll hear about it here.
Update - 2 years later - no leaks whatsoever.....